In the eastern reaches of the Indonesian archipelago lies the island of Sumba, a place where time seems to move to a different rhythm and wild horses roam free. It’s quietly emerging as one of the nation’s most sought-after surf destinations, with uncrowded waves and an off-the-beaten-path feel.
Sumba never fails to enchant with its herds of water buffaloes ambling along the beach and women weaving traditional ikat fabrics in villages studded with megalithic-style tombs. Among the island's most defining features is its Marapu belief system, a unique spiritual tradition in which the inhabitants revere the spirits of their ancestors, who are said to dwell all around them.
In some ways, Sumba's remote allure and lack of tourist infrastructure have propelled it towards becoming an exclusive enclave, home to one of Indonesia’s most celebrated hotels. But it’s also an eco-friendly haven for surfers seeking incredible waves and those wanting to immerse themselves in what is a distinctive cultural fabric...or just escape the crowds of Bali.
In this sustainable surf guide to Sumba, discover everything you need to know about exploring this enchanting island, from the best breaks to eco-friendly accommodation and tips for getting there and around.
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Surf spots in Sumba
When it comes to the surf on Sumba, there are two distinct zones - the western breaks and the eastern breaks. The western breaks are by far the more popular and well-known of the two, situated along a developing stretch of coastline in the southwest. While they’re more accessible to visiting surfers, they’re still far from crowded.
In contrast, Sumba's eastern surf spots are more remote, with fewer resorts and surf camps in the area. They tend not to be as consistently epic as their western counterparts, though they can be incredible when they’re firing. This is the place to head if you want to venture off-the-beaten-path and don’t mind a bit of rugged exploration.
Surf spots in west Sumba
Peros (left and right)
Peros’ right-hander, situated at the northern end of a river mouth, requires strong wet season swells of at least five feet to become a viable option for surfers. The true highlight, however, is the powerful left-hander that pulls into the bay on the southern side. When the conditions are right, with a solid dry-season southwest swell and an offshore trade wind, this wave boasts hollow, rippable sections.
Marosi (A-frame)
On the best days, the reef here produces clean, A-frame peaks that allow for powerful turns and committed manoeuvres on both the left and right-hand sides. However, the right-hand walls are generally considered the superior option, offering longer, more wall-like sections that invite drawn-out bottom turns and vertical re-entries.
Kerewe (right)
This right-hander has multiple distinct sections that come together to create one of the longest waves in Sumba. It provides ample opportunity for intermediate and advanced surfers to get barrelled and remains surprisingly uncrowded, despite being within paddling distance of several surf camps and hotels.
Occy’s Left (left)
Also known as "God's Left," this is one of the most controversial waves in Indonesia, having been privatised by the luxury NIHI resort that overlooks the break. Unless you’re a guest, you're forbidden from paddling out to what is a goofy footer’s dream. For those staying, the resort caps numbers at 12 surfers per day, ensuring it’s never going to be a crowded session.
Coconuts (left)
Directly in front of the luxurious Sanubari resort, this (generally) family-friendly wave is a popular choice when the winds pick up, largely due to its protected setting. It’s also the perfect training ground for newbies looking to hone their skills and the beach is absolutely gorgeous! For the best conditions, coincide your surf with the low tide.
Sustainable surf guide to Sumba
Surf spots in east Sumba
Miller’s Right
A magnet for the surf camps and resorts dotting Sumba's eastern shores, this righthand point is actually a series of breaks that offer something for surfers of all abilities. Those with more experience can take off deep into the point and be rewarded with a fast, hollow ride along the wave's face, while those still honing their skills can opt to stick closer to the inside section, where the wave tends to lose some of its power as it fattens out.
Five-O
Five-O is a gem for experienced shortboarders, offering an exhilarating performance opportunity that remains consistent across both dry and wet seasons. It lights up with power and energy during the larger swells, while still maintaining shape and ride-ability even in more modest conditions. Just be aware that the reef here is shallow, so it’s best on a high tide.
The Office
Dubbed “The Office” by the Kalala Beach Resort, this mellow break is a fun and approachable wave for surfers of all skill levels. It's the kind of wave that you could happily surf for hours on end and usually works in the 3-to-5 foot range during the dry season.
The Race Track
As the name suggests, this is the quickest and most intense part of the wave that breaks just offshore from the Kalala Beach Resort. Here, the reef shelf drops away sharply, creating a powerful surge of water that propels you with tremendous speed and leaves little room for error or adjustment. For experienced wave riders only.
Sustainable surf guide to Sumba
Sustainable places to stay in Sumba
Eco-friendly hotels and resorts in west Sumba
Complete with its own farm and hosting regular chef residencies, this boutique hotel in Sumba’s far west is definitely worth the splurge. It comprises 44 rooms and 20 villas, all of which are beautifully curated with traditional design pieces and contemporary art.
"One of the best hotels I have ever stayed.” - Melissa (read more reviews here)
Best eco-friendly hotels in Sumba
An open-air dining space at Cap Karoso in Sumba (photo courtesy of Expedia)
With just six suites offering ocean and jungle views, this exceptional boutique hotel in Sumba lies just around the corner from Marosi. When you’re not out surfing, you can take advantage of the onsite spa, gym and steam room or refuel on organic fare at the farm-to-table restaurant.
“Paradise!" - Milagros (read more reviews here)
Best eco-friendly hotels in Sumba
A stunning infinity pool at one of NIHI Sumba's uniquely designed villas (photo courtesy of Expedia)
Named the “World’s Best Hotel” by Travel + Leisure, this acclaimed Sumba resort features more than 25 uniquely designed villas, complete with private pools. It offers a wealth of experiences, from village treks to swimming with horses and spa safaris, but it’s the exclusive access to Occy’s Left that will be the biggest appeal for surfers.
"Experience of a lifetime.” - Joshus (read more reviews here)
Overlooking Kerewe Beach, this eco-friendly hotel in Sumba has a boutique feel, with just a handful of Sumbanese-style thatched roof bungalows and villas. It prides itself on employing locals and supports the teaching of English in local schools to help nurture the island’s sustainable tourism industry.
"Right on the beach with the most perfect wave directly out the front.” - Bradley (read more reviews here)
Best surf camps in Sumba
Sun loungers frame the sparkling swimming pool at Sumba Surf Camp
If you want an all-inclusive stay (accommodation, meals and access to the surf), then this laid-back Sumba surf camp is the place to stay. You can check the conditions at Kerewe Right directly from the property before being whisked away by boat to wherever’s working best. In between sessions, kick back beside the pool or stretch it out in the yoga cabana.
"It’s not as fancy and glam as the massive resorts being built on Sumba but it perfectly captures the essence of Sumba and surf travel. “ - Jess (read more reviews here)
With the option to book an individual suite or the entire property, this eco-friendly Sumba hotel is ideal for groups of surfers. It can sleep up to eight people and comes complete with a pool overlooking Kerewe Right, as well as a beachfront restaurant where food and drinks are served.
"Fantastic beachfront location, sweet and attentive staff. Overall a great stay!” - Carlo (read more reviews here)
Sustainable surf guide to Sumba
Eco-friendly hotels and resorts in east Sumba
Overlooking Tarimbang Bay, this off-grid Sumba camp features just a handful of tents set back from the beach in what is the most paradisiacal setting. There’s a fire pit where breads are cooked and locally caught seafood is grilled, with all-meals included for a hassle-free experience. Definitely one of the most sustainable Sumba accommodations available!
“Paradise: Nature this pure and beautiful is the ultimate luxury.” - Michelle (read more reviews here)
On the shores of Pantai Kalala, this Sumba eco-resort is not just ideal for surfers but anyone interested in spearfishing, kitesurfing and 4x4 adventures. The remote setting means there’s no Wi-Fi and power can be intermittent. But if you’re in Sumba to disconnect, then this off-the-beaten-track resort is calling.
“Secluded paradise.” - Steven (read more reviews here)
Sustainable surf guide to Sumba
Getting to and around Sumba
Getting to Sumba is relatively easy, thanks to the opening of the new Lede Kalumbang Airport in Tambolaka, which receives regularly flights from Denpasar, Bali. The journey takes just 50 minutes, with Nam Air, CitiLink and Wings all making the journey. Keep in mind that while Nam Air tends to be more affordable, the airline is known to cancel flights, so it’s best to be flexible with your travel plans.
Overland travel on Sumba is not straightforward, with many of the roads unpaved or in bad condition. Driving must be done at an excruciatingly slow pace to avoid the numerous potholes, ruts,and other hazards littering the routes. Even travelling short distances can take A LOT of time, so factor that in when deciding where to stay. There’s not a lot of signage and some of the motorbikes available for rent are poorly maintained.
If you’re staying at a surf camp or resort, they’ll probably access the breaks by boat, which is a much faster and more comfortable option. Without such specialised transport and the knowledge of local guides, it can be difficult to get where you want to be. That’s not to say you shouldn’t explore independently - you’ve just been warned that it might not be easy!
Sustainable surf guide to Sumba
Best time to surf in Sumba
The best time to surf in Sumba is during the dry season, which spans from March through October. During this period, the island is blessed with consistent, powerful swells originating from the southwest and west, perfectly aligning with Sumba's reef breaks along the southern coastline. Combined with the lightly offshore trade winds that typically pick up in the mid-morning hours, this creates the ideal conditions for firing waves.
That being said, even during the wet season from November through February (when daily rain showers are the norm), it's still possible to score quality surf, although the waves will generally be smaller and less clean. The eastern side of the island tends to produce the best results during the monsoon months, with breaks like Miller's Right offering more versatility.
If you’re flexible with your travel plans, it’s best to monitor the swell charts and forecasts to score a prime run of swell, rather than leaving it to the wave gods.
FAQs about surfing in Sumba
Does Sumba have good surf?
Sumba is known for its exceptional surf and blissfully uncrowded waves, with two distinct zones to choose from. The western breaks, situated along the island's rugged southwestern coastline, are the more frequently visited of the two, home to a collection of world-class reef and point breaks that have been drawing in an increasing number of surfers from around the globe in recent years.
Sumba's eastern surf spots offer a more secluded experience, with fewer resorts and surf camps nearby. While they may not deliver the same level of consistency as the western spots, they can still provide amazing waves when conditions are right. If you're looking to escape the crowds and enjoy some adventurous exploration, this is the perfect destination for you.
When is the surf season in Sumba?
When it comes to the best time to surf in Sumba, the dry season from March through October is undoubtedly the prime window. During these sun-soaked months, the island is blessed with a steady stream of powerful swells rolling in from the southwest and west, aligning perfectly with the reef breaks along Sumba’s southern coastline. These consistent waves are further enhanced by the lightly offshore trade winds that typically pick up in the mid-morning hours.
That being said, even during the island's wet season from November through February - when daily rain showers are the norm - it's still possible to find quality surf, albeit with slightly smaller and less polished waves. During these monsoon months, the eastern side of Sumba tends to produce the best results, particularly the breaks at Miller's Right.
Ultimately, the best time to plan a surf trip to Sumba comes down to closely monitoring the swell charts and forecasts, allowing you to time your visit to coincide with a prime run of swell. If you have the flexibility to adjust your schedule accordingly, you'll maximise your chances of scoring the epic waves that have made this Indonesian island a bucket-list destination for surfers the world over.
Do I need to stay at a surf camp in Sumba?
Staying at a Sumba surf camp or resort has its distinct advantages when it comes to accessing the best waves and breaks. Rather than having to navigate the unfamiliar coastline yourself, these dedicated accommodations will typically have specialised boats and knowledgeable local guides who can ferry you directly to wherever’s firing that day. Travelling by boat is far quicker and more comfortable than trying to reach the breaks on your own, particularly considering the condition of Sumba's roads.
That being said, it’s possible to stay at an independent homestay, hotel or resort in Sumba and navigate to the breaks on your own. It may just require a bit more research and a lot of patience as you drive the island’s potholed roads, without necessarily knowing where the best waves are breaking. Our suggestion would be to opt for a surf camp experience on your first visit to Sumba to familiarise yourself with the breaks, then consider an independent trip next time around.
How much experience do you need to surf in Sumba?
The level of experience required to surf in Sumba depends largely on the specific surf spot and the swell conditions that day. That being said, it’s not ideal for beginners, with most of the breaks requiring some experience due to the shallow reefs and cliffs. Coconuts is among the exceptions, with some surf camps and resorts using this beach break as their training ground. To really get the most out of surfing in Sumba, it’s best to build your confidence elsewhere, such as Bali or Lombok, so you can make the most of the incredible waves on offer.
About the authors
We are a team of passionate divers and surfers with decades of combined experience in the water and travelling to all corners of the globe. After years of chasing waves and descending into the deep blue, we've created this resource highlighting sustainably run surf camps, eco-friendly dive resorts and conservation-focused ocean trips to help inspire your next adventure.
Eco Ocean Escapes was born out of a love of the ocean, an obsession with travel and a concern about the impacts of our adventures on the environments we explore. Despite the benefits that surf and dive tourism can bring to local communities, we recognised that ocean-based adventures are not always managed in a sustainable manner.
Through our articles, we hope to inspire those seeking a responsible surf or dive trip that is all about supporting local communities, preserving our coastal environments and the incredible marine species that inhabit our oceans.